Japan Day 17

Alas, all good things must come to an end. Day 17 marked our last day in the Land of the Rising Sun. It was time to bid Japan goodbye or sayonara.

With 160 teachers flying back to various parts of America, there was a carefully crafted system of bag checks, hotel check outs, bus departures, and flight departures. I was slated for the last bus and flight departure...what's with me going last on this trip (not like it was a bad thing...just a funny coincidence)? So, I had some time to do some final sightseeing, but I couldn't go too far with all the prerequisite checks in between the day.

So I took a walk around the neighborhood of Akasaka surrounding our hotel at the Grand Prince. Just across the street was a 300 year old garden complete with waterfalls, ponds, and tea ceremony houses. Despite being a busy metropolis, Tokyo is abundant in various gardens, temples, and shrines. It's a wonderful balance of zen and industry. Without a doubt, she is the cleanest city I've seen with such a storied history. Remnants of old castles are still ever present amidst the skyscrapers and bright lights.

After returning to the hotel to do room checkout, Dr. Joe and I went exploring and searching for a Roman Catholic church that was supposed to be about 15-20 minutes away on foot. With map in hand, we found St. Ignatius Cathedral in the midst of the university setting. The architecture of the newly rebuilt building was fabulous. Sporting numerous floor to ceiling stained-glass windows and an intricate ceiling design, she was just gorgeous. The interesting part was that upon trying to enter the building, we ran into an older Italian gentleman in a suit and we started to converse. We then found out that he was the main priest at the church. He had lived in Japan for over 40 years since leaving Italy. He then proceeded to give us these beautiful and thick coffee table picture books about the church. Wow....what a blessing and a wonderful way to end my trip.

We then went back to the hotel and waited for our turn to depart. As a final note of Japan, the effort put into their generosity, hospitality, and service is unparalleled. The Japanese go out of their way to help others especially foreigners. The mix of personal honor and genuine generosity drives them to do things like walk a mile to make sure a stranger gets to their destination safely. A number of our teachers experienced complete Japanese strangers ride with them to their stop on the subway so that they got off on the right stop. At our hotel, I immediately noticed how keen the staff were to always scan the room to spot and anticipate whoever may need help. They don't just wait around to be asked. They actively try to predict how they can help you out. To top it all off, as each of our buses left, all available staff would stand outside and wave our buses goodbye.

Well, thank you for taking this trip virtually with me. It has definitely been a once in a lifetime type of opportunity. If you ever have the chance, you must visit Japan. She is a place unlike any other. There is so much we all can learn from each other.

Japan Day 16

My adventure in Japan was almost to a close as Day 16 came up. This was a long work day with all 10 groups doing presentations about their experiences in Japan and specifically in their home city. Our group did a top 10 presentation which highlighted the generosity of the people that we met and the wonderful children we encountered.

The other groups also put together some great presentations. One particular presentation that struck me were the groups that went into the earthquake stricken area of Iwate and Miyagi prefectures. It would have been totally understandable if the host cities would have cancelled since they suffered a massive 7.2 earthquake just the day before the host city trips. Instead, both cities still took in our teachers and went out of their way to take care of them while in the midst of emergency procedures and rebuilding. The mayors still met with the teams despite having to coordinate search and rescue operations and having to worry about basic functions in the cities. The families still opened their homes and took the teachers around the area. Also, the schools still went on with business.

After the presentations, we had a Sayonara (goodbye) Reception. Lots of great food was present and their was even a special Aikido presentation. Aikido is a martial art that focuses on using the opponent's energy and momentum to help defend the practitioner. Aikido is beautiful but efficient. It is about balance and leverage. Instead of conflicting with the enemy, it unifies the enemies energy with your own.

Japan Day 15

After being on the go for the last 14 days, it was hard to sit through lectures on day 15. Nevertheless, our return to Tokyo had us sitting through various lectures ranging from a visit to a Kindergarten to a seminar on Peace Education. I attended a lecture on fine arts education and the speaker's focus was on the history of toys in Japan as art forms. He showed a few ways to create some paper puzzles. Unfortunately, this was not what I expected for a fine arts education. Meanwhile, the Peace Education seemed to be the popular choice. They brought in some survivors from the Hiroshima bombing who told such compelling stories or so I've heard.

After our seminars, we had more time to explore. I went to the busy district of Shibuya. This business district lays claim to being one of the busiest and most densely packed areas. That means that there's so many people that it's kinda like being in a sardine can. Shibuya is a business district with a lot of neon lights and giant video screens. Right next to Japan's busiest train station, is a street crossing where everybody crosses in ALL directions, even diagonally, at the same time. It is sheer madness to watch hundreds of people just suddenly flood the streets and cross at the same time.

Japan Day 14

An early start found Dr. Joe and I scaling Mt. Tsukuba to reach the Tsukuba (pronounced scuba) shrine. The hike was worth it as we found more torii, waterfalls, and the dreaded bridge of doom.

We then proceeded to head back to Tokyo to meet up with the other 9 groups and begin debriefing.

However, upon arrival in Tokyo, there was some free time to go adventuring so I went off to Akihabara! For anyone who likes electronics and anime/manga, Akihabara is Mecca. Akihabara easily earns its title as electric town with tons of shops for computers, electronics, video games, and anime.

I then ran back to Asakusa and Harajuku to do some last minute shopping for omiyage or gifts to bring home for my family and friends.

Japan Day 13

My host family stay continued into Day 13. After a wonderful breakfast, my host dad took me for another drive while the ladies cleaned up and got ready. I tried to help with the dishes, but I was ceremoniously told that Japanese men do not clean up. This traditional way of thinking, which may be interpreted as chauvinistic, is also rapidly becoming outdated as western views infiltrate Japan. Interestingly, I don't think that they see it as gender biased either. Culturally, they are coming from hundreds of years where everyone has specific jobs and roles. While women may be expected to do the cleaning, they also control the finances at home.

Anyways, Tadayuki and I went for a drive around Kamisu and visited the port again. However, as we went deeper into the industrial area of the port, I was amazed to see how foggy everything was around us. The unusual fog was easily explained when he pointed out that the refineries and electric generators at the port use cold sea water to cool the turbines. However, the cold water becomes hot and then gets flushed back into the sea. When the hot water meets the cold sea and the cold morning air, steam rises from the ocean. Except, there is enough steam to cover the entire port area.

After our drive, we returned home to pick up the ladies. We then drove to Katori City or Sawara. When we arrived at Sawara, we were entertained with music from a band floating along the river in a boat. We stopped by to have some tea along the river. We then also visited the house and a museum devoted to Ino Tadataka. Ino San created a detailed map of Japan in the 1800s by walking for over 17 years all over Japan. His map is so detailed that even satellite images of Japan superimposed over his map show just a few minor errors in latitude.

We then ate at a soba noodle shop that was opened in the 1700's. In fact, most of the buildings in Sawara maintain an old appearance and thus gets used often in Japanese samurai movies or period dramas.

We then rushed back to city hall where I bid goodbye to my host family and our group was whisked off to our next stop at Tsukuba to stay at a traditional Japanese inn or ryokan, the Tsukuban Edoya. This was a highlight finish to our time in Ibaraki. The ryokan featured tatami mat floors, futon beds, Japanese foot baths called Ashiyu, and an outdoor hot spring bath or onsen. We even had the privilege of watching a performance by the innkeeper's wife who performed a traditional peddler show that tries to encourage the sale of the popular Tsukuba Toad Grease that is believed to heal cuts and scrapes. Her performance included the use of a Japanese Katana (sword) that sliced paper into ribbons to prove its sharpness but its inability to pierce the skin covered in the fantastic Toad Grease...hilarious.

Japan Day 12 Pt. 2 Bath Time

Okay, this deserved it's own section. Bath time in Japan, at least traditionally, has some ceremony and requires a few steps. Furo, or ofuro, is kind of like a tub that is filled usually with really hot water. However, one does not wash or bathe in the furo. The furo is meant for soaking and relaxing. Also, the same water in the furo is used by every family member so one must already be clean before getting in.

Being the guest of honor, I was told to bathe first. So, I had to do all the showering, soaping, shampooing, and rinsing outside of the tub. There is usually a small stool for you to sit on and a basin of water if a shower is not available. Thankfully, they had a really nice shower that even regulates the water temperature electronically. After making sure that I was totally clean and rinsed off with no soap suds on my body, I then slipped into the tub for a really HOT bath.

Japan Day 12

I had spent 12 days in Japan and our full immersion was about to begin. The next phase of our program was the either eagerly-anticipated or highly-dreaded host family stay. Yup, we were forced out of our cozy hotel rooms without our handy translator and guide to spend time with a Japanese family.

Each one of us in our group of 16 teachers in Kamisu had different experiences. Simultaneously the other 144 teachers scattered across the other 9 host cities across Japan had their own unique moments. While a very small percentage had a difficult time, most of us had very wonderful experiences that left a very discernable impression on us. Mine was phenomenal.

Our group had all assembled in the lobby of our hotel in Kamisu to be picked up by our host family. I watched intently as families came one by one to whisk away my fellow teachers. I was starting to get a little anxious when the Matsushitas finally arrived. Tadayuki and his daughter Izumi came to pick me up. Izumi and I are very similar in age and she used to teach English in a Japanese junior high which made things very comfortable and easy for me. While I have picked up a few key phrases and terms in Japanese, I was hardly able to communicate fluently. So, Izumi's English skills made the stay a lot less stressful. All in all, the Matsushitas hit it off and got along great.

Their unwavering generosity and gracious hospitality seemed to be fairly indicative of most of the host families. One might think that the concept of honor and "losing face" played a part in how well they took care of us, but I believe that the people we've met are just genuinely caring and giving.

So, after getting picked up, we drove off to Kashima shrine. Yes, I went before, but the first time was just for 30 minutes and that really didn't do justice to the shrines so I had requested to go again. I'm so glad I went again. We went deeper into the thick of the forest and found a shrine and a torii gate WITHIN a pond filled with giant koi fish. I also got to see the reindeer eat orange peels again.

They then took me to Itako for the famed Ayame Matsuri (Iris Festival) where we got to see fields of purple, lavender, and white Irises in bloom along with a reenactment of a Traditonal Wedding Ceremony where the bride is sent to her wedding via boat along with her dowry of rice and sake. We also went for a boat ride along the river where we got to stop by floating shops for treats like mochi.

After Itako, we had lunch and had tonkatsu. Mmmmn...yummy.

We then went to their home and got situated. There, I met Nobuko, the wife of Tadayuki and mother of Izumi. She is one of the most creative people I have ever met. She described herself as a housewife on the info paper that I got about their family. However, what wasn't said was that she works part time making cell phone parts...not the cute little charms, but the electronics inside the phone. Plus, she does the house cleaning and coooking. Also, she has a wonderful garden full of flowers and veggies which she uses for cooking and she even pickles her own food such as umeboshi. She also dries, flattens, and arranges the flowers and other garden materials in special paper and Washi to make a picture. For example, she'll use cotton to make waterfalls, petals to make rabbits, and roots to make tree limbs in order to create these scenic landscape pictures that look so realistic from across the room. Oh yeah, she sows kimonos as well. But I digress, after meeting my host mom, the ladies immediately went to work on cooking while Tadayuki san and I went driving around.

He took me to his work place which is a construction company that handles cranes of all sizes. From little cranes the size of regular construction machines to towering behemoths that take at least a week to assemble and lift over 200 tons, he drives them all. This is apparently a very lucrative job since construction of skyscrapers in Tokyo and even around the new city of Kamisu has been booming.

We returned home to a nice surprise. They arranged a small little block party with some of their friends and neighbors. I felt really honored as their guests brought little gifts for me. We feasted on tempura and unagi along with other yummy dishes. Oh yeah, Nobuko made all the ceramic bowls, plates, and cups that everyone used that night. Wow.

Japan Day 11

Eleven...or Ju Ichi...brought us to Hasaki Senior High. The big difference is that Senior High is non-compulsory. What does that mean? Well, in Japan, students must go to elementary school, which goes from grades 1-6, and junior high school, which is from grades 7-9. However, Senior High, which goes from grades 10-12, is not mandatory and students must take a test to get good scores in order to get into good schools. The test is a very big and competitive part of school life in Japan.

Once again, we were greeted like rockstars with a ceremony in our honor and speeches. The band played "Hooray for Hollywood" as we marched into the gym. We then proceeded to observe various classes. Hasaki High specializes in industrial and engineering studies. They still offer the standard academics of Language, Math, Sciences, History, and English in large classes of around 40 students. However, they also offer very small ratios of 6-10 students for their workshops such as metal machining, electrical engineering, etc.

However, the school day doesn't end when the bell rings. Afterschool social clubs are a big part of a student's life. We were able to participate and observe such activities such as baseball, soccer, judo, kendo, ikebana, and tea ceremony clubs.

Kendo really was impressive with the female participants shrieking at high volume and the flurry of their kendo swords struck against each other's armor.

Japan Day 10

Day 10 saw another school visit, but this time to Hasaki Daiyon Junior High School. The first obvious difference is that all junior high schools have a uniform policy. Hasaki Daiyon has the traditional black and white outfits for regular school use, but they also have an awesome baby blue shorts, sweater, and shirt outfit for PE.

During our stay, we saw a number of fine arts classes. We got a chance to do some india ink painting and play a large stringed-instrument called a koto. All Japanese schools also offer instruction of English in addition to their Japanese language. Which means that most Japanese children will be bilingual on some level.

The Junior High students also ate in their classes and cleaned the school much like their elementary counterparts. During the cleaning, I had to double check to make sure that I was on the second floor as I saw a student hanging outside the window and washing the outside of the glass. The students have a strong sense of pride and responsibility for their school and it is clear in how well they keep the campus clean.

Day 9

Woohooo! We finally get to go to a school! We kick things off with a visit to Fukashiba Elementary School in Kamisu City. Our host city group includes 16 teachers from throughout the USA and includes a person of African-American descent and several folks of mixed Caucasian background that runs the gamut of blonde, redheads, green-eyed, blue-eyed, etc. So, factor in the fact that Japan as a whole is pretty homogenious as an ethnic society, the entire experience was very much akin to being rockstars. It was bananas! Kids were surrounding us by the droves asking for our autographs. I literally signed hundreds of books, bags, folders, papers, and even a lunchbox.

Aside from the circus coming into town, there was real work to be done. We went and observed classes to see how they taught academics and handled behavior. We also got to participate in activities such as Japanese Calligraphy, computer, recess (dodgeball & double dutch), and gardening.

There are quite a few interesting differences in their schools and our American schools. First of all, coming to school is a very organized event where the kids wear the same brightly colored hat (usually a yellow baseball cap) so that they are very visible to traffic. Also, they are organized in teams where older kids walk younger kids to school with the 5th or 6th graders on the front and back to sandwich all the little kiddos. Immediately after arriving at school and before the school day starts, kids either do self-directed exercises or do chores such as cleaning or watering plans. Another interesting fact is that the students take of their outside shoes and put on slippers for the inside of the school.

Other differences include the entire concept of lunch. In most US schools, lunch is handled in the cafeteria as students get their food and eat at tables. In Japan, lunch is handled in the classroom as a team of students for each class brings the food to the classroom and they serve the food from rolling pots and pans onto plates. All of this is student directed and the teacher eats with them in the classroom.

After lunch and towards the closing of the school day, the most mind-blowing thing occured...cleaning time. Yes folks, the elementary students had their assigned areas and started to clean. Not just picking up rubbish or straightening chairs, but full blown sweeping hallways, wiping down furniture, vacuuming, weeding the gardens, beating carpets, etc. It was like watching Karate Kid as hundreds of Daniel-Sans had to paint the fence or wax the floor for Mr. Miyagi. Once again, the teachers didn't have to tell these students what to do. They were busy cleaning themselves.

Day 8

Our host city agenda is all about receptions and discussion groups. So, it's no surprise that the first thing on our agenda for today was a meet and greet with a select group of parents (kinda like their PTA) to discuss educational reform. The ladies that we met with were all very involved parents and are perhaps more so than most Japanese parents. Nevertheless, we walked away with the feeling that the majority of Japanese parents are very supportive of the school system. However, it is important to note that divorce rates (around 25% compared to the 55% in the US) is on the rise and more homes have dual income families that have both parents working instead of a traditional stay at home-parent (which usually is the mom).

It was funny to hear the term "Monster Parent" which is applied by the Japanese to parents who are overly demanding and difficult to work with in the schools. Apparently, these types of parents are increasing as well in Japan as shared by the moms that we met with. Right now, I'm picturing a parent walk into a school with the Godzilla music and suddenly roaring.

Our next stop was another meet and greet at the fancy Kashima Central Hotel. The city held a reception for all of us with the Mayor and special dignitaries, host families, and media in attendance. Of course, it would be my luck to be responsible for the requisite speech on behalf of our group on this occasion. I have to admit that it went well and I was pretty proud of my speech...I even gave the intro in Japanese! Woohoo!

I also got to meet my host family, which I will join in a few days, for the first time. I have the honor of staying with a lovely older couple and their daughter. Man, I wish I took Japanese in High School instead of French. It would've paid of well now.

After our reception, we were whisked away to Kashima Port where a city boat was waiting for us. We got an awesome tour of their harbor and the busy port system. I kindly shared that I was interested in getting behind the wheel of the boat. They kindly shared "No". LOL.

We then were taken to a visit with one of the local industries: the Kao Corporation. The Kao Corporation is a chemical manufacturer that makes such products as Biore, Jergen's Lotion, and Shiseido. We were given the grand tour and were even hooked up with some gift baskets...nice.

We then were taken to Minato Park where they have this huge tower observatory that overlooks the harbor. Great views and the park even had cool penguin waterfountains.

Japan Day 7

We're in our host prefecture of Ibaraki and we went between the capital city of Mito to the our host city of Kamisu.

First, we were received at Ibaraki University where we first met with the University President before dividing into 3 groups to have discussions with university students about the higher level educational system and their concerns. Ibaraki University has a pretty accomplished and established agricultural program. As always, the people that we've met have been courteous and extremely curious about us.

After our university stop, we took the a side trip to Kashima Shrine on our way to Kamisu city. This is a beautiful shrine like all the other shrines I've visited. However, this shrine is nestled deep within a forest and is home to deer. There's something special going on here. I've definitely got to go back. Also, every shrine I've visited uses a particular crest or mon, to identify the shrine. Kashima in particular uses the design with three "tomoe". Tomoe are supposed to be a swirly image with a large round head and a elongated tail...kind of like a tadpole...however, they are actually depictions of snakes. In Japan, snakes are believed to be very spiritual animals. In fact, the yin and yang sign is made of two tomoe.

Then, we rolled up on Kamisu City and had the meet and greet with the Mayor, Vice-Mayor, Superintendent, and their posse. They were really gracious and even gave us these cool lanterns as gifts and took us on a tour of a pond that was called "God's Pond". This was interesting since it used to be a much bigger pond and they reclaimed a whole grip of land for development. Nevertheless, the pond was pretty lake sized still yet.

Japan Day 6

Left Tokyo by chartered bus to go to the Ibaraki prefecture and my host city of Kamisu. Before leaving I took a trip to Ginza where I caught a festival where they carry portable shrines called mikoshi. It was a party atmosphere as hundreds of people came dressed in their Hapi coats to carry the gilded shrines.

Then, we set off for Mito...the capital of Ibaraki. On our way, we stopped by Kairaku-en...one of the top three gardens of Japan.

Another beautiful garden and shrine...Kairaku-en boasts a large plum forest, bamboo grove, springs, lakes, caves, cherry trees, and the Kobuntei (traditional Japanese bldg). Built in 1841 by Tokugawa Nariaki...Kairaku-en was unique where she was open to the public. After all her name means "a park to be enjoyed together".

Tomorrow marks the meat of the program as we have various visits with schools over the next few days. Whew...I'm beat.